No More Mud | iwencanada.com

Michelle Bonneau, Director at Large, Nepal

April 27, 2012

From the moment each Canadian volunteer stepped onto Nepal’s International Airport tarmac to the time they boarded their plane back home the CP/IWEN volunteer experience can be described by one word, “awesome.” Awesome even takes into account Kathmandu’s chaos, dirt, craziest traffic congestions and Lamahi’s camping-type hotel accommodations, rice and more rice, the endless barking dogs, mosquitoes, spider bites, visits to the local hospital, bouts of diarrhea and a strange sense of time, which we nicknamed, “the ishes.” Each volunteer and staff shared memorable moments as Classroom for a Cause unfolded day by day amidst hard working Tharu locals.

Kevin Edgecombe, the Build Team Leader, from Kelowna, BC worked endless hours in preparation for Classroom for a Cause while Karen Hughes and Jacqui Conroy played an important part in getting information out to the volunteers. Dinesh, CP Program Director in Kathmandu, collaborated with Kevin using Skype, which we now kindly nick-named, “Major Disconnect.” Though their call connections were constantly interrupted they managed to keep updated as the work progress in Lamahi. Dinesh’s constant “No problem,” response to Kevin’s many questions who was a half a world away kept the preparation smoothly moving forward.

This venture was CP/IWEN’s first volunteer experience. The CP office staffs both in Kathmandu and Lamahi were not only excited but also quite anxious about making this event as comfortable and pleasant as possible for our nine generous Canadians.

Blurry-eyed volunteers were welcomed with beautiful traditional Nepali garlands and even more fantastic smiles. Cameras began clicking at this point and never stopped till the last volunteer left Kathmandu. The first inkling of Nepal’s cultural difference occurred when a young man requested a fair amount of money for practically wrenching a suitcase from an unsuspected volunteer. Kevin educated the young man on how to do this differently. After a bumpy bus ride through Kathmandu’s dark streets Annapurna hotel’s lights were a most welcomed sight.

Though late it seemed most appropriate to end our welcome with an ice-cold beer, French fries and some useful traveler’s tips. Welcome packages provided some kindly advice while Kevin’s classy Classroom for a Cause green jackets and shirts definitely would provide dryness from the next day’s down pour. The first step was taken and all around smiles indicated that we were off to a good start.

CP’s welcome dinner was a noisy event as Canadians and Nepalese shared introductions, stories and lots of wine. However it was not the wine that made IWEN’s Michelle exclaim that the pheasant, which made its way around the dining hall was the largest pheasant she had ever seen. Finally someone enlightened her it was not a real pheasant after all but rather a tiny man in a large pheasant costume. Traditional dancers weaved their way about the guests creating a somewhat magical evening. Govinda Adhiakri, CP’s President graciously welcomed the group in the midst of dancers and the pheasant. Wayne from Developing World Connections joined the group with a plan to investigate the possibility of working with CP and IWEN in continuing the Classroom for a Cause Project.

Five thirty the next morning certainly was an early departure time as jet lag ultimately began to set in. Nonetheless six taxis met at the new bus park loaded down with sleepy volunteers, luggage, gear and 25 painting canvases. The 25 canvases were not part of the building materials but were destined for NAFA’s annual “Live Art” event, which CP arranged to coincide with the Classroom for a Cause Build.

We noisily boarded the air-conditioned bus in name only. Water leaking on the first seat was creatively solved with Dinesh managing to find a blanket on which to sit. With the luggage securely tightened on the roof and each volunteer accounted for we started the long 11-hour journey to Dang. Chatter filled the bus as we slowly weaved our way out of Kathmandu’s traffic down the valley onto Nepal’s only East-West highway. Cathie H. exclaimed, “There’s just too much to see and to take it.” There were many “oohs” and “ahhs” as the unique beauty of Nepal’s countryside slid past us.

Nura had arrived early in Lamahi to ensure that all preparations were completed. Her joyous welcome was certainly a relief from the tedious bus ride, which instantly made us all feel at ease. Lamahi’s “5-star hotel” was slightly out of Annapurna’s league but Dinesh and Kevin managed to match up all the volunteers so that each had a bed. Of course Lamahi’s cold ones were eagerly sampled as young on-lookers crowded about the hotel’s front door. A peek at so many white persons in one place was worth the risk of an adult’s scolding. The children quickly made everyone feel quite at home. Their curiosity was innocently refreshing. Soon their smiles and questions became an awaited daily ritual after a long workday.

Thus began our Lamahi experience with the “ishes” of the hour. No matter how hard we tried we just couldn’t manage to coordinate breakfast, water bottles, Deepa’s arrival or the buses’ arrival so that we actually left at 7am. Leaving the work site was about the same story. Depending on how much cement was hand mixed usually determined the departure time. Thus began the chant near the end of each working day, “No more mud!”

As the sun was setting on one of our first days, Kevin was the first to yell our famous chant from the makeshift scaffolding at the work site. That workday was particularly long. All nicely squished into our bus the group chanted, “No More Mud.” The bus driver turned on the radio full blast. Whether this was to encourage us or drown out our offbeat “No More Mud” we will never know. During the 45-minute potholed drive back to Lamahi Hindi and Nepali music blared and appeared to match everyone’s happy relief despite the fatigue we all felt.

Most volunteers shared, “It will be impossible to describe what we have experienced.” This statement is absolutely true. How can one share the heart-felt welcome received on our first day at the school compound work site. Sarita and Deepa, CP’s Lamahi staff, organized what they called a “soft welcome.” In the end it was soft but with lots of soft tissues drying teary eyes. The sincere appreciation of IWEN’s Tharu Mothers’ Groups’ welcome appears to touch something within our Western hearts that has long been forgotten. Their giving is done in such simple humility that defies expression.

As each volunteer and guests were given the traditional tika and garland we were silently ushered into a small classroom where chairs waited. Before us the Mothers’ Groups and school personnel sat on clean gray carpets. As I looked into the crowd I realized that it never ceases to amaze me how many Nepalese could actually sit on the floor cross-legged for hours on end in almost perfect silence. Waiting is no problem.

Short speeches introduced the volunteers and our purpose as well as CP’s special guest, Nepal Academy of Fine arts (NAFA) Chancellor, Kiran Manandhar, one of Nepal’s’ most famous artist, who was to lead the “Live Art” activities. Only in Nepal would one dare organize a two-day art event on an active work site, with curious children on lookers and where buffalo herders cross the school compound at any time of the day. While Tharu mothers carried cement bags on their heads and the men dutifully placed brick upon brick others wielded paintbrushes creating some fairly spectacular paintings. Some local artists joined the group however the Tharu student participants had never touch a clean canvas with a paintbrush prior to this event. The event ended with an exhibition of everyone’s completed artwork and proud smiles as the volunteers handed participants’ certificates.

As the days unfolded the Canadians laying bricks slowly gained the respect of the local bricklayers who on the first day were quite convinced that these foreigners were not as capable as them. Kevin and Dinesh handed out green work T-shirts to everyone working. This somehow provided a sense of unity amongst the motley crew of mothers, students, volunteers and contractor. On the last day Shawn who had found a working brother took off his green T-shirt as the bus was leaving and through the window handed his new brother his sweaty shirt. No picture could have captured this Tharu man’s gratitude. Chainpur’s Principal and President of the School Management Committee, both humble, sincere men, were present daily working along side of the crew. Their daily presence was truly encouraging.

Each layered brick gradually was bringing a dream to completion. The Brick Campaign initiated in Canada was making a visible difference. Ever so carefully, Kevin and the volunteers cemented gray engraved slates with the name of each person who had donated a brick during the campaign. At the day’s end we all stood in admiration as 3 long lines of names gave silent testimony to how sharing our resources can make the impossible possible. The Canada House plaque separating the 3 rows into equal sections testifies to the meaning of cooperation. One hundred and fifty one IWEN Tharu mothers who volunteered from day one working long hours were part of making the impossibility possible. For many of these mothers this meant not earning a day’s wage in the field of a landlord, which adds to the significance of the commitment.

One mother shared that she volunteered because her daughter attends this school. “Now this is our classroom,” she stated with teary yet proud eyes.

IWEN’s and CP’s ultimate goal was to involve the commitment of all concerned parties so that these two classrooms would not just be a foreign handout built by some far off donor. From the community’s participation it appears that the goal of local involvement was achieved. In addition 21 women and 14 men from the school and local community participated in a 5 to 7 year improvement plan for their school. The day gave concrete results. Brainstorming in terms of how all involved in Chainpur could be part of their plan’s completion to improve their school with the collaboration of IWEN and Developing World Connections. Time will be the ultimate test. However on a small scale the impossible became possible. This gives hope to all concerned.

There were many highlights during our 7 working days; in Kathmandu United School’s grade nines’ 50,000 rupee donation to Kevin, the $200.00 donation of one Canadian family gave an IWEN student a badly needed operation, several volunteers decided to sponsor a graduating senior her first year of nursing making an impossible dream a reality, Tharu women teaching Canadian women how to weave Tharu traditional baskets, volunteers who were IWEN educational sponsors met their students bringing home the importance of educating females and a few tears and finally the shared successes of the IWEN Mother’s Group gave hope of self-reliance from within the Mother's Groups. However one highlight many volunteers who could eat looked forward to was the Mother's Groups’ daily lunches served on freshly made leaf plates. How they managed to cook such elaborate meals for so many people still remains a mystery. CP paid for the food but they too volunteered their time. Michelle handing out plastic spoons and hand sanitizer followed the lunch call. This ritual naturally made the Tharu mothers smile and exchange glances as each volunteer lined up to be served. I often wonder what impression we sanitized Canadians give to our Nepalese neighbors.

Another event, which developed quite unexpectedly and partly due to Dinesh and Kevin’s thoughtfulness, was a soccer match between Chainpur’s senior girls and the Canadians. The Chainpur team never owned a uniform and always played barefoot. Naturally the day of the game each girl was given a bag that held a spanking new white shirt and yellow-stripped green trunks. As the newly dressed team single filed out of the classroom no profession team could have matched the silent pride that showed on these girls’ faces.

Rocks indicated goal posts. The playing field lines were non-existent. When the ball landed in the river or nearly hitting a spectator it was considered out. Because no whistle could be found there was no referee. The game seemed to evolve despite Shawn being both player and referee. Perry Stome is now deemed to have a second career as a soccer goalie. The mothers were coaxed into leaving the safety of their shady tree and became Chainpur’s first cheerleaders led by a few noisy volunteers. Cathie H. assured CNN’s presence as she videotaped the play by play amongst the opposing running teams. Each time the Canadians scored a goal poor Perry was booed. He was just tiring too hard. All the spectators were bent on seeing the Chainpur girls win even if it meant bending a few rules. In the end the score ended in a two-two tie. Within moments after the game the girls transformed themselves back into polite Tharu young women in their colorful kurtas. No one could have guessed how hard they had just fought to tie this historic game.

The daily trip from Lamahi to Chainpur especially in the morning for many of us appeared to be a time for reflection. It was wheat-harvesting time. As we lumbered down the gravel road, the sights our eyes witnessed seemed to come from an ancient past. Men and women carrying enormous bundles of wheat and grasses on their backs defied expression. Everywhere small clusters of people could be seen huddled over working, cutting and stacking. The hand cut wheat neatly placed in criss cross fashion would soon be hand winnowed. Small herds of buffalos, sheep and goats ate their fill in the already cut fields. Life’s eternal rhythm of death and new life could not have been more evident. This daily reminder was refreshing as most volunteers live far removed from this reality.

However tiny brightly wrapped Easter eggs, which Linda Edgecombe had slipped into Kevin’s luggage somehow made their way to our Easter Sunday supper table reminding us of the Easter Season. The teeming activity in the golden fields was an adequate testimony to Easter’s death and life cycle.

Yes, “awesome” does describe this first IWEN/CP volunteer experience. Of course it would not have been possible without the commitment of the nine volunteers who braved unknown conditions to participate in the build. In such an achievement there are many silent supporters; donors who believed in the cause, volunteers who organized fund raisers and finally the wives and husbands back home keeping life moving. Even awesome however does not describe how the reality of life so far from Canadian comprehension can bring about a sense of inner satisfaction and hope that anything is possible when people join hands together.

IWEN/CP volunteers:

Kelowna, BC: Team Leader – Kevin E., and Cathie H. and Deana H. Lower Mainland, BC: Lorraine E. Medicine Hat, Alberta: Diane R. Red Deer, Alberta: Perry and Kathie S. Grande Prairie, Alberta: Larry T. Toronto, Ont: Shawn A